Days 66 - 69 on the Trail

Oh dear.  Between infrequent phone calls and my travel (and not taking notes), I'm having a hard time piecing together the previous week of Dave's hike.  Here's what I know for sure.

Dave had allowed 4 days to hike from Caratunk to Monson, ME, but made it in 3 days.  He checked in on Friday, August 26th.

As of 08/26/11:
Miles in the last 3 days - 37

As of 08/27/11:
Miles today: 10 a "slack pack" day
Miles to date - 757.3

By the time Dave arrived in Monson, Hurricane Irene was projected to hit NYC and continue north all the way into Maine, though the eye was supposed to be west of where Dave was staying.  He made sure he had a bunk in the bunk room for several days, as other hikers were expected to converge on the hostel and fill it up.  And they did.  Several hikers made record times trying to get to the hostel before Irene hit NE.  The trail in New Hampshire had been closed. Dave met several of them weeks ago, and now they were all caught up again.

Dave had to stay at the hostel for 4 nights.  As you can imagine, he was getting extremely restless and anxious to get going.  An unexpected benefit was that since Saturday morning was still clear, a hostel worker took him to a spot where the road crossed the trail, and Dave hiked back to the hostel, getting that extra 10 mile section done without having to carry a full pack.  That's what the hikers call a "slack pack" day. Saturday evening and Sunday morning brought rain rain and more rain thanks to Irene.   The big question for the hikers was the condition of the trail from Monson to Katahdin.

The hostel - Shaw's

On Monday, a few of the hikers decided to do what Dave had done, complete a 10-mile section by riding north then hiking south back to the hostel.  When they got back, they reported the trail was wet and muddy but doable.  The concern is crossing the creeks and streams further up the trail that are surely full and swift after all the rain.  They have heard reports of impassable streams.

While spending those 3+ days in Monson, Dave got to know a hiker whose trail name is Chainsaw (yikes).  Dave had been running into him in the previous few days, but while at the hostel they shared several meals and got chummy.  They decided they would stick together for the remaining trip.  They both know that on a muddy, slippery trail with potentially dangerous creek crossings it would be good to have a hiking buddy.  They are both on the same time schedule, too.  A few of the other hikers have also rallied around, sharing schedules so other hikers are expecting them at certain campgrounds on certain days and everyone stays safe.  These hikers include Buckeye Flash, Pilgrim and Deadman.

Not everyone is so conservative.  A father-daughter team and a single woman left Monson yesterday in a big hurry to get to Katahdin.  They want to finish the trail by Labor Day so didn't feel they could wait longer for the trail to dry out.  Dave was especially concerned about the single woman trying to cross streams by herself.  He did attempt to talk her out of leaving on Monday, but she was not to be deterred.  Her boyfriend is already in Millinocket waiting for her and she starts a new job on the Tuesday after Labor Day.  If she makes it.

Monson, Maine

Dave and Chainsaw's plan for today is to get shuttled to a point 50 miles away to a spot where the trail crosses a road, then hike south back to the hostel.  That way they can carry half the amount of food they would otherwise need if they were doing the whole 100+ miles to the Northern Terminus.  They'll spend one more night at the hostel, getting their last shower and bunk, packing the last of their food, getting dropped off at the 50-mile mark again, and hiking north to Katahdin.

Dave thinks he'll be able to call on Wednesday when he is on top of a mountain, then I expect him to be back in the hostel on Friday 9/1/11.

Me (blue kayak) with Kathleen, Jane & Elizabeth

I had a FANTASTIC time in Denver with Candy, Elizabeth, Kathleen, Anne, Mary and Jane, celebrating Vicki's birthday.  We kayaked three mornings, had spa treatments, attended a FACES concert, had a pot-luck cookout/party, drank Starbucks until my pee smelled like coffee, ate Einstein bagels, lunched at great restaurants, several of us bought new spectacles and we all laughed until our sides hurt.  My weekend was a zillion times better than Dave's, IMHO.

Days 63 - 65 on the Trail - 700 Mile Mark!

Dave made it to Caratunk on Tuesday morning.

As of 08/23/11:
Miles in the last 3 days - 31.3
Miles to date - 710.3

Can you believe Dave has hiked/climbed over 700 miles??!! He has "only" 150 miles to go to the end of the Appalachian Trail on top of Mt. Katahdin.  (Side note:  I can't tell you how often I've typed 'trial' instead of 'trail' - I think either spelling is appropriate!)

Pierce Pond Lean-to

Dave spent the night at the Little Bigelow Lean-to Sunday night after hiking 10 miles.  He was at the Pierce Pond Lean-to Monday night after hiking 17 miles!  I think that may be his record day, I'll have to look. Tuesday he had only 3.8 miles to get to Caratunk, but was aware he had to take a ferry to cross the Kennebec River and wanted to get to the ferry early, not knowing the schedule or how long it would take to get across.  He covered the 3.5 miles to the river in the early morning and was one of the first two people there.  The ferry eventually showed up -- it was a 3-passenger canoe!  Or maybe I should say 2-passengers and the 'ferry operator.'

This is the warning found in guidebooks which included the red highlights:

     "The Kennebec River is the most formidable un-bridged crossing along the entire 2,174-mile Appalachian Trail. 
     "The Kennebec is approximately 70 yards wide with a swift, powerful current under the best of circumstances. However, as a result of releases of water from hydro facilities upstream, the depth and current of the river surge quickly and unpredictably. You cannot cross faster than the water level rises.
     "Hikers will be required to sign a release form, wear a life jacket, and follow the instructions of the ferry operator. If river conditions or weather make the crossing dangerous in the judgment of the ferry operator, the service will be discontinued until conditions improve."

Many people have lost their lives over the years attempting to ford the river, so the Appalachian Trail Conference hires a paddler to ferry them.  In season, he makes 30 crossings a day.

It was just 0.3 miles into the town of Caratunk, which Dave says is nothing more than a few buildings.  The Northern Outdoor Center is 2 miles away with a few bunkrooms and a lodge with rooms and a restaurant.  Dave did not have a reservation, but since he was one of the first people off the ferry, he was able to snag the last $12/night bunk.  He heard one of the hikers trying to check in later, moaning and groaning about having to pay $107 for a lodge room.  The room included 2 double beds, a twin and a kitchenette.  The hiker was able to find others to share the room - and cost.  For a vacation, the price is reasonable, especially after seeing what it looks like.  Through-hikers just want a mattress, shower, and a place to do their laundry.  Very few can afford $100/night.

The lodge looks fantastic.  I couldn't copy pictures off their website, here's the web address of their photo gallery.  I've tried to make it a link but haven't figured it out yet.  http://www.northernoutdoors.com/site/gallery.html

Dave was happy with his bunk room, especially after having taken a 20 minute hot shower and doing his laundry.  Not at the same time.  He ate dinner at the lodge and had a couple of beers.  He was in excellent spirits but still recovering physically from his 17 mile hike. He said he won't try to go that far again, even as the trail gets easier in Maine.

Dave likes to meet and talk to Nobo (northbound) hikers, getting to know people he may be running into in the future and always looking for a good hiking companion.  He had a short conversation with one hiker in the Outdoor Center store and was leaving when a guy (obviously not a hiker) caught up with him and said, Did I hear you are from Savannah? The guy kept thinking Dave looked familiar and wanted to find out if and how he knew Dave.  Turns out his name is Bruce Bateman, lives one street away from us and has worked with Dave maintaining the decoys on the lagoons in our community!

Bruce's family has owned land in Caratunk since the 1800's.  Bruce happened to be in the Outdoor Center sending a fax when Dave walked in.  There is no cell or internet service, just landlines and Dave was using the Center's phone.  What a coincidence!  I forgot to ask Dave if Bruce will still be there after Labor Day.  We have two sets of good friends who have camps near Stratton but both of them will be gone by the time I'm getting Dave. Maine must have quite the summer season!

Dave plans to be in Monson, ME by Saturday and will have no cell service until then.  I'll be in Denver with my 6 (out of 7) Lindley cousins, celebrating Vicki's birthday.  I get home Sunday evening, so you can expect the next blog posting on Monday 8/29 at the earliest.

Day 63 on the Trail

As of 08/21/11:  No word from Dave; I'm sure there was no cell service.  He is hiking the 31+ miles from Horns Pond to Caratunk, Maine.  He should be there by Thursday at the latest.

Day 62 on the Trail

Dave arrived in Stratton, Maine, and immediately got back on the trail.

As of 08/20/11:
Miles today - 5.2
Miles to date - 679

Horns Pond Lean-to

He's at the Horns Pond Lean-to this evening.  In Maine the shelters are called lean-to's.  Four hikers came in after him and he was pleased to see he had met them all before.  The first one that saw him, Shaky, said, Granddad! You must have really turned on the after burners!  He got a good laugh out of that.  Freight Train and Plan B were two of the hikers and Dave couldn't remember the name of the 4th when he was talking to me.

Horns Pond, ME

Dave said he'd like to keep hiking with them, but their plan sounds more ambitious than his.  He said he can already see that the trail is getting a little easier.  He still had some steep ascents and descents, but they were not as bad as what he's been through in the last couple weeks.  He can see the trail levels out for a while.  He had great weather today and was in very good spirits.

Zero Day #7

As a matter of logistics, Dave had to take another zero day.

As of 08/19/11:
Miles to date - 673.8

Dave was very antsy and bored today, doing his laundry and giving his knees a break.  After two rain days Monday and Tuesday, he was so happy to be back on the trail and hiking again Wednesday and Thursday.  Those downhills are doing a number on his knees, though.  Two months of hiking and a loss of 20-25 pounds is catching up with our 63-year old hiker.  Dave is happier hiking than sitting around, but he's getting to the point where he has to be concerned about serious knee issues. He decided to catch a ride to Stratton, Maine, and hike the last 188 miles from there to Mt. Katahdin.  He could not get a ride today, but will leave early tomorrow morning and that's why he's cooling his jets today.

Some hikers left the hostel this morning telling Dave, We wish you were going with us.  Dave wished he was going, too, but had to give his knees a rest.  He'll be back on the trail tomorrow afternoon.

He now hopes to finish by Sept. 8th under the best of conditions, Sept. 12th if he has weather and/or knee issues. I'll be leaving here just after Labor Day, driving to Maine to pick him up.  I expect to get there in 3 days.  It's a 24 hour drive according to the shortest mapquest route, but I'll be avoiding some areas such as NYC and add many miles to my trip.  Dave will have spent about 24 weeks hiking from GA to ME (in 3 section hikes).  What a guy.

Dave will be crossing the 2000 mile marker just 7 miles past Stratton!  He may get there tomorrow.

Days 60 & 61 on the Trail

Wildcat Mountains

I said in my last blog Dave would be climbing up and over Wildcat Mountain.  He informed me it's Wildcats Mountains - with a total of 10-11 peaks he climbed in the last two days.

As of 08/18/11:
Miles yesterday and today - 20.8
Miles to date - 673.8

Dave said it was a very hard, but not 'bad' two days.  Wednesday he spent 11 hours going 13 miles, climbing 5 named peaks, having to use his hands (rather than his poles) to help stabilize himself in order to not slip on roots and wet rocks.  Often, when he would get to the top of a mountain, he would look down and think, How in the hell am I going to get down that slope?

Thursday he hiked almost 8 miles in 5 1/2 hours.  The first 5 miles were a continuous very steep up and down, but the last 3 miles were a very nice walk.  He had hiked from 7 AM to 12:30 PM and was famished.  For lunch he ate 3 chicken and rice burritos and a couple of Cliff Bars.  His hunger didn't go away, so he went to the nearby Walmart and bought groceries he can't carry in his pack.  For dinner he ate a footlong Subway turkey and vegetable sandwich, a bag of chips, more Cliff bars and two doughnuts, washed down by 2 beers.  Oh, he had a pint of blueberry cheesecake ice cream for dessert.  When he called at 8 PM tonight, he said he was still hungry.  He's hoping that once he gets off the trail, he won't be compelled to eat until he can't eat any more!

He said his knees were killing him on the downhill hikes and is looking forward to resting them for another day. He said he doesn't want to ruin them for life, and I'm glad he's thinking long term.

Zero Day #6

As of 08/15/11:
Miles today - 0
Miles to date - 653

Gorham at red dot

Another rainy day, another zero day, unfortunately.  Dave is still in Gorham, NH, and was bored and getting anxious. He did not want to stay off the trail this long, and he sees his schedule slipping. He's chiefly concerned about making it to Katahdin before bad weather sets in, and every day he loses now pushes his schedule later into September.

Mt. Katahdin is circled in red

He split his food supplies and mailed himself a box he'll pick up in Caratunck, ME.  He watched a Matt Damon movie and CNN to catch up on the news.  He had a small dinner - a dehydrated and rehydrated lasagna and he bought himself a cold beer.  He said the sun came out in the late afternoon, and now he's excited about getting back on the trail.

Today (08/16/11) I have not heard from him, so I'm guessing the weather improved and he was able to start hiking again.  We knew he may not be able to call as he is hiking over Wildcat Mountain.