Friday, August 12, 2011

Day 56 on the Trail

Kathy Johnson and me
I had to do some catching up after my two blog vacations.  By the way, I had a great time, thank you very much.

As of 8/11/11:
Miles today - 8.1
Miles to date - 626.7

Dave's miles/day is dropping because each step tends to be up a steep hill, or down a steep hill.  It does tend to slow one down.  Also, campsites and shelters are not as available in the White Mountains so he has to stop where he can find an overnight spot even if he is willing to hike farther.  The Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) owns and operates a series of huts that, according to previous hikers, are the best places to stay at night.  However, there is a big catch.  These huts are generally close to a road and parking lot, and have become extremely popular with day hikers who drive up the mountain then hike to the hut/lodge for the evening.  The AMC started charging $30/person/night and now the rate is $100/person/night, and you can rarely stay without a reservation.  This system makes a lot of money for the AMC but it also makes it hard for a through-hiker to stop when he's tired.


Wednesday evening, 8/10/11, Dave and Rich came to the Crawford Notch Hut and felt they were too tired to go another 5 miles to the next available shelter. There was a room available with two bunks.  The cost?  $100 each for the tiny room they shared.  In their tired state, they decided to stay.




Rich happened to be out in the hallway when a woman first opened the door to her room and screamed out, "You've got to be kidding me!"  Dave wrote a note to the AMC saying they are providing extremely little value for the high cost of the rooms, and catering to the day hikers instead of supporting the through-hikers who need places to stay night after night.  Hikers find it difficult to make reservations, as their schedules depend upon weather and trail conditions.  NH has very strict rules about where you can and cannot camp.  Dave knows it's a case of supply and demand, but the AMC is not supporting the through-hikers.  He said the AMC is known among the hikers as the All your Money Club.  To be fair, the price does include a supper and breakfast.  Gourmet dinners? Not.

Dave is in the Presidential Range of the White Mountains, and so far has climbed Mt. Lincoln, Mt. Garfield, Mt. Webster and Mt. Jefferson.  (According to Wikipedia, the Presidential Range is a mountain range located in the White Mountains of New Hampshire.  Containing the highest peaks of the Whites, its most notable summits are named for American Presidents, followed by prominent public figures of the 18th and 19th centuries.  Mt. Washington, home of the highest winds recorded on the surface of the Earth at 231 mph, is the tallest at 6,288 ft.)

Mizpah Springs Hut
Dave called after 9 pm Thursday night 8/11/11, very late for his evening call.  He's usually in his sleeping bag by then.  He is in the Mizpah Springs Hut, and as it turns out, he had just finished giving a lecture on long distance hiking to the guests!  A few hikers are given the opportunity to work-for-stay.  Usually that means washing dishes, cleaning rooms, etc. but Dave and Rich proposed they entertain the guests.  Rich knew the possibilities, and had brought along his trumpet!  What a sight that must be, a hiker with a trumpet on his backpack.  Fortunately, the manager accepted their proposal, so Dave 'lectured' while Rich played music. Dave said he had so many questions from the guests the talk went on and on, and finally he said it's time for Rich to play taps.  Their reward was not a bunk room; they got to sleep on the floor of the library, but they did get dinner and breakfast.

They had made the same proposal at the Crawford Notch Hut, but were turned down.  The hut may have already 'booked' their entertainment for the evening.
The Crawford Notch Hut is between Zealand Falls and Mizpah Spring
The Mizpah Hut is approx. 3800' up one side of Mt. Washington.  Dave said they've had beautiful weather.  The next two days are supposed to be sunny and dry, and he's looking forward to getting over Mt. Washington.  He was sitting on the outside porch when he called, in his clothes and long johns, enjoying the cool air.  I told him I saw 99º on our thermometer this afternoon and 102º on the car screen.  He said he could use a shot of heat, but just a shot.  He prefers hiking in the cooler weather.  He plans to be at Lakes of the Clouds Hut tomorrow, Friday 8/12/11.

As I'm writing this I realize Dave didn't mention anything about Boulder and Bahama Dave.  I'll have to remember to ask what's become of them.  Bahama Dave is a retired Georgia Tech professor, lives in Decatur, GA, and planned to get off the trail at some point to help a friend navigate a boat from FL to SC (I think).  Boulder is a young kid, in his 20s.  Rich lives in CT and plays in a band (hence the trumpet) that travels up and down the East Coast.  His girlfriend is an opera singer who lives in Richmond Hill, just outside Savannah.  Dave is excited about the possibility of being able to see and do more hiking with Bahama Dave and Rich since they both live in or get to Georgia often.

Last night when Dave told me he gave a lecture to the guests, I jokingly asked him if he took a shower first.  He said he took one yesterday at the hut where he paid $100.  Hmm, I hope he doesn't start thinking one shower a week is okay!

2 comments:

  1. Dang - where did it go? Just wrote that it was great you were back and we could hear more adventures of Dave. I was saying gouging is no fun for a place to put your head down, and it's good the ATM machines are along the way, probably. But at least he's not buying gas....like you are, running all over the place! Ha.
    Won't bother with more but have missed your blogs, Cindy. XO

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  2. Great to see another post! Emma was just asking how far Mr. Howell would have got by now as we drove out of the White Mountains this afternoon, after dropping some friends off at the trailhead to Mizpah. Sorry to hear how the overnight guests are affecting distance hikers. We certainly thought the AMC did better by them and it's a shame they do not. We hiked to Lonesome Lake last month with three kids (ages 6, 8, and 11) and it was a great experience, but definitely expensive. I know one factor is that the staff hike all the supplies and trash in and out, but we could have done without the evening's "entertainment" in favor of more comfortable beds, that's for sure. Then again, there was no through hiker regaling us with tales of the trail to the tunes of a traveling trumpeter.

    Looking forward to further updates, and all the best to Dave!

    Marianna, Reinhart, and Emma

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